Fama Ndiaye is a K-beauty strategist with 10+ years of experience based in Seoul, founder of AGASKIN, and inclusive beauty consultant working with brands across Europe, the UAE, and Africa. In this post she challenges the myth of universal beauty and what it means for women of color.
One-size-fits-all beauty has failed women of color. Here is why — and what comes next.
We have all heard it. “For all skin types.” “Universal shades.” “Clean, inclusive, effortless.” It sounds nice. Safe. Easy. But here is the truth: universal beauty usually means default beauty. And that default has rarely been built with women of color in mind.
Let us stop pretending that universal means equal. It does not. And it never has.
The Myth of Universal Beauty
When the beauty industry says universal, it often means designed for lighter skin tones, created with one standard of sensitivity or oil balance in mind, photographed on skin that reflects light in a specific way, and tested on a narrow demographic that does not reflect global diversity.
That is the problem. Because beauty is not universal — and skin is not either. Pretending otherwise leaves too many women behind.
How Melanin-Rich Skin Is Different
Women of color navigate a beauty industry that was not built for them. Here is what that means in practice.
Melanin-rich skin responds differently to inflammation. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is far more common — a small breakout or reaction can leave dark marks for months. Inflammation presents differently too. While lighter skin shows redness, deeper skin often shows pigment changes or texture shifts. The barrier can be more sensitive, making over-exfoliation or harsh actives riskier. And ingredient tolerance varies — some acids or brightening agents may cause irritation if not dosed or layered correctly for deeper skin tones.
When skincare is treated as one-size-fits-all, we ignore the real biology of most of the world’s population.
What Happens When Brands Default to Universal
Women of color are left out. If a sunscreen leaves a white cast on deeper skin, it is not universal — it is inaccessible. If a product was tested on lighter skin and claims to work for everyone, those claims do not hold up. And once trust is broken with Black and Brown consumers, it is very difficult to rebuild.
The beauty industry has a long history of including women of color in campaigns while excluding them from product development. That gap is what universal beauty actually looks like in practice.
What Real Inclusion Looks Like for Women of Color
It does not mean creating a separate product line. It means building every product with the full range of skin tones in mind from the start.
That looks like testing on a broad range of Fitzpatrick skin types before launch. It looks like communicating with specificity — not generalizations. It looks like designing visuals, textures, and packaging that work across all tones. And it looks like inviting women of color to shape the product, not just model for it.
Language That Respects, Not Panders
The words beauty brands use matter. Instead of saying “for all skin types,” try “tested on oily, dry, and melanin-rich skin.” Instead of “universal shade,” try “buildable pigment designed for Fitzpatrick I through VI.” Instead of “brightens skin,” try “targets dullness and uneven tone without irritation.”
The goal is clarity over catchphrases. Women of color can tell the difference between a brand that has done the work and one that has not.
Why Specificity Builds Trust With Women of Color
When a brand speaks clearly and specifically to someone, that person listens. Saying “we tested this formula on Fitzpatrick V through VI to ensure it does not oxidise or grey out” does not exclude anyone. It tells everyone — especially women of color — that this brand knows who it is building for and is doing it with intention.
That is what earns loyalty. Not a campaign. Not a tagline. A product that actually works for the skin it claims to serve.
Final Thought
You do not need to be universal. You need to be specific, respectful, and real.
Beauty is not about pleasing the most people. It is about building for the people who have been excluded the longest — and doing it with more than good intentions.
If universal does not work, do not fix the slogan. Fix the product. Fix the testing. Fix who is in the room when decisions are made.
Women of color are not waiting to be included anymore. The brands that understand that will lead the next era of beauty.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is universal beauty a problem for women of color?
Universal beauty typically defaults to lighter skin tones, narrower shade ranges, and formulations tested on a limited demographic. This leaves women of color underserved despite being a major and growing global market.
What does inclusive beauty actually mean for women of color?
Inclusive beauty means products formulated and tested for a full range of skin tones, visuals that authentically represent diverse women, language that respects lived experience, and brand teams that reflect the audience being served.
How should beauty brands communicate inclusivity to women of color without being performative?
By being specific rather than using broad claims. Stating exactly which skin types were tested, which concerns the product addresses, and who shaped the product — rather than using catchphrases like universal or for all skin types.
